A guide to exfoliation

However the task is undertaken, exfoliation is an integral part of caring for the skin. A process called desquamation causes cells formed in the innermost layers of the epidermis to travel upwards, or outwards, until they reach the stratum corneum—the outermost layer of skin. Here, dead skin cells are naturally shed or sloughed away, but exfoliation aids in their removal, helping maintain efficient cell turnover.

Hear the word exfoliant mentioned, and something granular and abrasive likely comes to mind. While this mental image is certainly descriptive of most physical exfoliants, it does not always apply to those of the chemical variety.

Put simply, a chemical exfoliant breaks down the bonds between skin cells, helping to accelerate the shedding of those cells. Some chemical exfoliants will act exclusively on the surface of the skin, while others can penetrate the pores and help clear dead cells and other debris—or sebum—that may build up inside.

Chemical exfoliants work by reducing corneocyte adhesion—breaking down the interactions between surface cells. They include Hydroxy Acids, which can be used to provide mild chemical exfoliation. Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are water-soluble. Lactic Acid, the gentlest member of the AHA family, is an ingredient in a number of our formulations. Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)—such as Salicylic Acid—are oil-soluble, and assist with clearing congestion. Used appropriately, these chemical exfoliants can help improve the texture of the skin, making it softer and smoother.

Daily-use cleansers containing a chemical exfoliant—like Parsley Seed Facial Cleanser or In Two Minds Facial Cleanser—offer a mild exfoliating solution. However, for skin that is particularly dull, patchy or congested, a more robust approach involving abrasive ingredients may be necessary.

Enter: the physical exfoliant.

The simplest answer to the question of how often one should exfoliate is: twice weekly. No matter your skin type, exfoliating this frequently will ensure that your skin benefits from the well-timed attention.

While In Two Minds Facial Cleanser and Parsley Seed Facial Cleanser offer mild enough exfoliation to be used daily, it is best to adhere to a twice-weekly frequency with other Aesop exfoliating products. Exfoliating too often will remove healthy cells from the stratum corneum, which can impair the skin’s natural protective barrier and may lead to dry, aggravated skin.

Standing at the bathroom sink, a wish arises—to cleanse and exfoliate at the same time.

As luck would have it, an array of formulations that perform both tasks avail themselves to practitioners of efficient skin care regimens.